When local hospitality firm Mothersauce Partners took over the 30,000-square-foot Assembly food hall space in Rosslyn, founder Nick Freshman knew better than to repeat his predecessor’s mistakes. “None of their outlets were local,” he observes. “How does a place called Great Lake Diner relate to the DMV?” The new Upside on Moore food hall opened in March with six D.C.-area vendors, plus three concepts (a bar, coffee counter and bistro) that are Mothersauce originals. Not sure what to try first? Here are seven offerings that tantalized my taste buds.
General Tso’s Chicken at Lucky Danger
Chef Tim Ma brings a second iteration of his popular Chinese-American takeout (the original is in Westpost) to Rosslyn. His tasty version of General Tso’s chicken tosses chunks of batter-fried thigh meat with toasted chilies, broccoli and a vinegary sweet-and-sour sauce with hints of orange. ($12)
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Loco Moco at Kam & 46
Co-owners Elaine Benisano and Vanessa Maneja grew up with Filipino immigrant parents and grandparents. The duo opened a food truck in 2021 to bring that heritage to the DMV, naming it Kam after Benisano’s Hawaiian home (on Kamehameha IV Road in Kalihi, Hawaii) and 46, the street number of Maneja’s childhood residence in Dale City, California. Their out-of-this-world take on the Hawaiian staple loco moco finds pulled slow-braised beef drenched in beef dipping gravy and topped with a sunny-side up egg, grilled onions and pickled veggies. It’s served with steamed rice and furikake-laced macaroni salad. ($19.50)
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Oaxacan Spring at The Bar at Upside on Moore
Elli Benchimol, owner of Apéro, a Champagne and caviar bar in Georgetown, created the cocktail program for Upside’s bar. I fancy the refreshing, well-balanced Oaxacan Spring, made with mezcal, Barolo Chinato, tart strawberry shrub, lemon juice and Aperol. ($14)
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Fried Chicken Cobb Salad at Lili’s
Mothersauce culinary director and partner Adam Stein is the talent behind the menu at this American bistro. His classic Cobb salad hits the mark with rows of sliced avocado, chopped scallions, bacon crumbles, crispy fried chicken strips, shredded cheddar cheese and cherry tomatoes sitting atop mixed greens enrobed with blue cheese dressing. ($17)
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Carciofo alla Romana at Stellina Pizzeria
Co-owners Antonio Matarazzo (an Arlington resident) and chef Matteo Venini make terrific pizza (their free-form Margherita is divine), but Stellina’s fried artichokes are also irresistible. Exquisitely trimmed, halved, dredged in flour and deep-fried to crispy perfection, they are accompanied by a lemony smoked mayonnaise for dipping. ($13)
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Ube Colada at Elli’s IslandÂ
Open Wednesday through Friday on Upside’s outdoor terrace, Elli’s Island is a pop-up tiki bar that brings the fun in drinks such as the Ube Colada, a tropical purple pleasure made with coconut rum, pineapple rum, coconut cream, pineapple, ube and an orchid. ($16)
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The Arlington Ripper at GhostburgerÂ
Sure, the burgers from D.C.-based Ghostburger are top-notch, but I am partial to the Arlington Ripper—a bacon-wrapped beef hot dog served in a buttery toasted bun with pimento cheese, pickled red cabbage, pickled jalapeños and cilantro sprigs. ($12)