You’ll know Thomas, West Virginia, when you see it. The trick is to see it.
It’s unlikely you’d ever just stumble upon the blink-and-you-miss-it historic downtown, a sequestered row of multistory masonry units with expansive glass storefronts—although you could say the boutiques, eateries and art galleries along that strip have put the former coal town (population just north of 600) back on the map. Since the early 2000s, various homespun businesses have joined pillar music venue the Purple Fiddle in making this Tucker County hamlet a true “mountain arts town.”
The three-hour drive from D.C. to Thomas is a getaway unto itself. Head west and the traffic snarls of the Capital Beltway slowly give way to scenic views as you gain altitude. The journey invites a similarly elevated state of mind, whether your itinerary upon arrival includes an action-packed thrill ride on roiling river rapids or a quiet trek through otherworldly terrain. (You can safely expect the town, with its Allegheny elevation of just over 3,000 feet, to be about 10 degrees cooler than home, so plan accordingly when you pack.)
Seated on the North Fork of the Blackwater River with nature providing a spectacular backdrop, Thomas offers proximity to an abundance of outdoor adventures, from mountain biking, hiking, tubing and river rafting to rock climbing the imposing edifice of nearby Seneca Rocks.
My husband and I visited most recently with our three kids in tow—ages 6, 8 and 10—and were delighted to discover that Thomas stands at the ready to receive families. On sunny days, follow the trail of bubbles floating in the breeze to Ranger Jane’s, a Front Street toy store whose owners glory not just in their inventory of screen-free games, but also in recommending fun excursions for parents and kids.
We had a time pulling our youngest away from that enchanting shop, but he was soon mesmerized by the billowing mist from the very nearby and quite dramatic Blackwater Falls. A short, well-maintained trek leads to multiple overlooks. When the falls are gushing after a heavy rainfall, you can choose just how wet you want to get and position yourself accordingly.
Our children were met with open arms everywhere we went about town, including the aforementioned Purple Fiddle, which sets a tone that is adamantly kid-friendly (look for a banjo-wielding Kermit the Frog perched over the stage). Business hours are for “all ages ALL the time,” and visiting bands and musicians must agree to a strictly enforced pro-family booking policy.
We popped in for what turned out to be a pre-show sound check for Jeremy Short and his Appalachian Space Funk band, but our kids were perfectly happy to get the party started early. (As far as they are concerned, any music, plus an open floor, is an invitation to dance.)
Acoustic, bluegrass and Americana acts are the venue’s bread and butter—fans will recognize past headliners such as The Avett Brothers, Greensky Bluegrass and Sierra Ferrell—though the range of genres has expanded with the club’s growing reputation for great music. Tucked inside a converted general store with capacity for about 150, the Purple Fiddle celebrates its vintage building’s 100-year history with the original counters, shelves, ceiling and storefront still intact.
Summer is high season in Tucker County, but even then, there’s plenty of room to breathe, and it’s easy to escape the masses. A conspicuous riverfront trail with historic markers invites visitors to connect with visible remnants of the town’s past, such as the crumbling remains of the beehive coke ovens that operated along the 1.5-mile stretch between Thomas and neighboring Davis during the region’s coal-mining heyday.
For the remainder of our stay, we chose outings that could accommodate a range of ages, including horseback riding, a petting zoo and gemstone mining. Our 10-year-old was ready to test his mettle hiking the strenuous Seneca Rocks, while our younger two were content collecting pebbles along the landmark formation’s lower trail.
Should your explorations require a guide or equipment, the town’s small businesses are happy to dole out expertise, gear and a healthy dose of infectious enthusiasm.
Where to Stay
Stay overnight at Dandy Flats, a pair of uniquely renovated small apartments in a historic building smack in the middle of town. (Book on their website instead of Airbnb to save some cash.) Featuring 10-foot ceilings, rain showers and original woodwork, the sister flats are central to the town’s immediate offerings. Their exterior fuchsia staircase is easy to spot.
Five minutes further afield in Davis, the retro boutique Billy Motel & Bar is prized for its mod furnishings. A groovy midcentury-style lounge serves clever cocktails with a complimentary first round for motel guests—a welcome perk after a full day of outdoor exertion. (Try the pepper root margarita with house-made beet grenadine.) Open for dinner Wednesday through Saturday, the motel’s Ish Kitchen parlays locally sourced ingredients into globally inspired dishes ranging from Irish-style slow-roasted pork with glazed carrots to a Japanese tofu noodle bowl with pickled vegetables.
For more rustic accommodations, camping at one of the well-kept tent and trailer sites at Blackwater Falls State Park is an option from April through October. Park cabins are available to rent year-round. Select from “classic” or “vacation” styles, depending on your feelings about A/C.
Where to Eat
Don’t dream of passing through Thomas without stopping at state-famous TipTop Coffee, which offers a menu’s worth of antidotes to the midafternoon slump, including a standout nitro cold brew, plus funky mushroom wallpaper in the restroom. Locals come for the coffee, but stay for the rotating selection of baked goods, bagel sandwiches and smoothies. The chamomile-lavender chocolate bars and vast selection of canned beers from West Virginia craft breweries are also tip top.
Nearby Mountain State Brewery has what you need in the way of draft hops, flatbread pizza (from a simple Margherita to a pepper ring-topped “Fire on the Mountain”) and the official state food of West Virginia: pepperoni rolls. The homey, come-as-you-are taproom boasts a roaring fireplace in the colder months, and sliding doors that open to picnic tables and sunny skies when weather permits. Mason-jar drinking glasses and sawhorse bar stools supply a stamp of rusticity that’s one part practicality, two parts charm.
While the Purple Fiddle needs no introduction as a live music venue—bluegrass and mountain music acts book months in advance for a coveted weekend evening slot—the kitchen’s deli-style menu is nothing to snub. The food here is prepared simply, and well. Order the Montreal grilled cheese on rye.
Where to Shop
Thomas’ intimate downtown has plenty of art to admire and acquire. Browse Santangelo for locally made paintings, ceramics and tongue-in-cheek prints—to say nothing of the gallery’s jaw-dropping ceiling mural and cozy book nook. Nearby Nellie Rose is the place for handmade, Japanese-inspired clothing made from boiled wool, raw silk and organic cotton. Art house Bloom prides itself on affordable art prints by Appalachian artists. And just a few doors down, lifestyle apparel brand McClumsy offers up hats, hoodies, water bottles and laid-back vibes.
At home goods shop Ella and Co., the thoughtfully curated wares include antiques and new furnishings infused with nostalgia—think blown glass, hand-dipped taper candles and rustic flower arrangements tied with velvet ribbon. Thomasyard peddles fresh flowers, local crafts, snacks, honey, jam and wine.
Where to Play
Situated at the northern end of the Monongahela National Forest, Thomas is a perfect home base for all kinds of outdoor excursions. Blackwater Falls State Park is a must, especially after a soaking rain. (The so-called “black” water actually runs amber, owing to the tannic acid from fallen hemlock and red spruce tree needles.) Drive to the main overlook to access the park’s 57-foot namesake waterfall via a short walk that’s doable even for very young visitors. Then explore the surrounding trails—particularly in early spring before the forest’s leaf canopy fills in and obscures the views. Those casting for a fishing excursion will find the park’s Pendleton Lake and Blackwater River stocked with trout in the spring. Anglers 15 and older can snag a required license at wvhunt.com.
For a more action-packed outing, try whitewater rafting in nearby St. George, where Blackwater Outdoor Adventures provides guided trips and rents gear, including wet suits and splash jackets for chilly days, for participants ages 7 and up. Or, book a horseback ride 20 minutes south of Thomas with cash-only Mountain Trail Rides and saddle up for a guided jaunt through the forests and meadows of Canaan Valley State Park and Resort. Note that anything more than a brief spin on a pony requires an age minimum of 6.
A popular ski destination in winter, Canaan Valley enjoys a bit of an offseason in spring. That’s when travelers have much of the well-maintained 18-mile trail system—which includes portions of the Allegheny Trail, West Virginia’s longest footpath—to themselves.
Summer brings clay shooting (for participants 12 and up) and mountain-biking with rentals from the park’s rec center. A ski lift that runs in the warmer months offers sweeping, bird’s-eye views of the wilderness, with a good chance of spying black bears and hang gliders.
Seneca Rocks, a popular rock-climbing spot about 40 minutes from Thomas, is known for its foreboding, 900-foot wall of quartzite. Book a guided excursion with Seneca Rocks Mountain Guides. Not quite ready for ropes and rappelling that kind of vertical? The outfitter also offers no-age-minimum packages that invite newbies to tackle the indoor training facility and camp at its creekside campgrounds, including use of an outdoor kitchen. For non-climbers, a 1.3-mile hiking trail that starts behind the Seneca Rocks Discovery Center offers breathtaking valley views as a reward—but keep in mind that this two-hour trek is strenuous and not suitable for little ones.
Yet another worthwhile nature excursion is Dolly Sods Wilderness, located about an hour from Thomas and accessed only by a dirt road. Dolly Sods is an expanse of terrain resembling that of Eastern Canada, with 47 miles of trails and fields of wild blueberries that you can pick starting in midsummer. On summer weekends, stop at Eagleview Lavender Farm in Maysville to pick your own bundle of fragrant stems. The farm’s owner decided to follow her dream of growing lavender at age 72.
Susan Anspach lives in Vienna, where she raises her kids and teaches music to many additional raucous young children. She wears a lot of hats; the best one is probably a giant felt Christmas tree headband with jingle bells.