I could hear my stomach rumbling, but I was distracted from my hunger by the views. Cruising down U.S. 211 on a sunny spring morning, Rappahannock County unfolded on either side in wide-screen beauty. Fields dotted with golden hay bales gave way to verdant forests in fine fettle, the Blue Ridge Mountains looming in the background, rendered in deepening shades of bluish gray.
My destination was the Mint Cottage, a pastel peppermint Airbnb perched on the edge of Washington, Virginia. Recently renovated and artfully decorated with a neo-Nordic sensibility, this chic country getaway, with its well-equipped kitchen, would serve as my home base for the next few days.
If I felt like cooking a meal, there were plenty of places nearby to grab fresh ingredients, including ecologically grown produce from Sperryville’s Waterpenny Farm and superb apples at Williams Orchard in Flint Hill. Every Saturday from spring well into fall, the Rappahannock Farmers Market in Sperryville features Bean Hollow Grassfed’s meats, almost-too-beautiful-to-eat breads from Jackalope Ridge, chef-level ’shrooms by Madison Mushrooms and more.
But on this trip, my plan was to eschew the kitchen in favor of exploring Rappahannock’s vibrant restaurant scene.
Later that day, I addressed my hunger pangs by meeting friends at Patty O’s for dinner. A two-minute walk from the cottage, the French- and Americana-inspired cafe/bakery from chef Patrick O’Connell is located kitty-corner to The Inn at Little Washington, his celebrated Michelin 3-star restaurant.
We began with a squat jam jar of pimento cheese with crackly, caraway seed flatbread that snapped into shards perfect for scooping the iconic Southern dip. I then treated myself to the half-pound burger topped with a coverlet of gooey Comté cheese and crispy onions. Between it and the well-executed side of frites, I was beyond satisfied. No dessert required.
The next day, after grabbing an empowering oat milk latte at Before & After cafe, I rendezvoused with a friend for a hike in Shenandoah National Park to burn off the previous night’s indulgences. We chose the challenging Little Devil Stairs trail, which wends its way up the mountains for nearly 1,500 feet along a gurgling stream, past charming waterfalls and over rocky tumbles.
Upon achieving the ridgeline, we found an Instagram-ready overlook and enjoyed a picnic before taking a leisurely stroll back down to the trailhead.
That evening I dined at Houndstooth, a romantic one-seating-a-night restaurant tucked inside Glen Gordon Manor in Huntly. Chef Dayn Smith’s five-course tasting menu began with toothsome asparagus paired with grapefruit segments and vanilla gelée. Next came a gingery carrot soup accented with toasted coconut and creme fraiche espuma, served with fresh-baked, butter-slathered sourdough.
The main dish, a braised short rib paired with pink-centered tenderloin, came with a port shallot sauce that required another round of bread—not that I was complaining.
For those interested in wine, the restaurant offers an impressive list, 500 varietals strong and stored in its 4,000-bottle wine cellar, which you can tour upon request after your meal.
As I headed to the car, fireflies blinked over the lawn under a velveteen blue-black sky. Driving back to the cottage along narrow, undulating roads, I encountered several deer, their eyes gleaming ghostlike in the darkness. Outside the cottage, I took a moment to marvel at the glittering stars. They seemed notably brighter without the competition of harsh city light.
A few nights later, for a change of scenery, I moved over to Blue Rock, a boutique inn on 80 pristinely maintained acres, complete with a picturesque pond and a rolling vineyard. One of the inn’s two dining options is a casual tasting room offering shareable small bites and a few entrees, including exceptional fried chicken.
In the intimate, modern dining room next door, chef Bin Lu (an alum of Pineapple & Pearls in D.C.) oversees a four-course tasting menu that revels in showcasing whatever is fresh at local farms, indulgent ingredients and surprising flavor combinations.
Case in point was a bowl of saffron-accented rice pilaf, bejeweled with trout roe, sugar snap peas and the gentle zing of preserved etrog, a lemonlike citrus fruit.
Another standout: agnolotti, plump with nixtamalized grits, in a Parmesan broth punctuated by fiddlehead ferns. Caviar with hoecakes (cornmeal pancakes) was offered as a supplemental; I couldn’t say no.
The inn has five rooms upstairs—plus a chic farmhouse on the property that can sleep 10 guests.
The next morning, I took my breakfast onto the small rooftop terrace to savor the gorgeous views and splendid weather. A muffin, fruit salad, yogurt and granola are all included—as is coffee or tea—but the pro move is to order the cold fried chicken as an addendum. It comes with vinegar-forward hot sauce hiding a slow burn that helped kick-start the day.
After checking out of Blue Rock, I stopped at the Sperryville Corner Store, a wonderfully bougie market stocked with an excellent meat counter, cut-above pantry staples, local produce, grazing board goodies, blue-ribbon snacks, a curated selection of beer and wine, and well-constructed sandwiches. The house-made baked goods include must-buy oaty Park Ranger cookies with shredded coconut and chocolate chips.
Turning the car out of Sperryville and back onto U.S. 211 heading eastward, I tucked into a mustard-slathered ham and cheese sandwich, a Park Ranger cookie waiting in the wings. This would fuel the ride home, allowing me to enjoy a taste of Rappahannock bliss for just a little longer.
If You Go
Sperryville is 70 miles southwest of Arlington and accessible only by car.
Mint Cottage – On the outskirts of Little Washington, this charming neo-Nordic cottage offers an elegant retreat with an extensively outfitted kitchen, lots of room for lounging and entertaining, and beautiful countryside views.
Blue Rock – Pineapple & Pearls alum Bin Lu oversees an engaging tasting menu experience with head-turning presentations, electric flavor combinations and luxe addendums.
Patty O’s Cafe & Bakery – The Inn at Little Washington’s little sister is both a charming cafe serving up classy casual French and Americana favorites and a blue-ribbon bakery specializing in boules, baguettes, flaky croissants and dainty pastries.
Houndstooth – Hunt Country modernism meets Old World technique at this one-seating-a-night, five-course tasting menu restaurant under the watchful eye of chef Dayn Smith, whose artful plates showcase the season and region.
Before & After – This cozy, always-buzzing coffee shop is the de facto heart of Sperryville, serving caffeinated beverages, excellent pastries and hearty sandwiches.
Sperryville Corner Store – The boutique market offers casual grab ’n’ go fare, gourmet grazing board accoutrements, pantry staples, a formidable butcher’s counter and a well-curated selection of beer and wine.
Nevin Martell is a freelance writer, forager, and gardener based in Silver Spring, Maryland. Follow him on Instagram @nevinmartell.