“All the world’s a stage, and all the men and women merely players.”
If William Shakespeare’s famous line holds true, there may be no better place to play your part than Staunton, Virginia. Located about 150 miles from Arlington, this Shenandoah Valley city with a population of roughly 26,000 boasts a cultural scene that rivals much larger locales. The American Shakespeare Center and its Blackfriars Playhouse—the world’s only re-creation of Shakespeare’s indoor theater—is here, along with comedy shows, open mic nights, live music and the annual Queen City Mischief & Magic festival, a fan event that attracts more than 20,000 revelers of all ages who love a good cosplay.
A popular draw for Potterheads (aka Harry Potter aficionados), the festival is not affiliated with author J.K. Rowling or Warner Bros. Entertainment, but it does celebrate the beloved book and film series with dozens of activities; some require tickets though most are free.
My now-grown oldest son and I devoured the Harry Potter books, then movies, when he was a young teen. With each new book we grew more enamored with Rowling’s characters—especially as we learned Snape’s backstory (he’s not as evil as he seems), and how even the kind and seemingly all-knowing Albus Dumbledore made mistakes and had his regrets. And of course, we treasured the epic story of friendship that had the power to conquer huge obstacles.
That same power of friendship—among business owners, individuals and city staff—brings a palpable magic to Staunton’s transformation into a bewitching village each fall. Last year’s event included character arrivals by train at Platform 9¾, Quidditch matches, a “Beware of Low Flying Owls Avian Show,” a snake show, potions classes, a wand shop, wizarding workshops and an adults-only dance party. You don’t need to be a wizarding fan to enjoy the fun, as my traveling companion (not a devout Potterhead) discovered.
Sarah Lynch, owner of local restaurant Baja Bean, dreamed up the festival in 2016. She had read most of the Harry Potter books with her son, Henry, and the eighth story in the series, Harry Potter and the Cursed Child, was set to come out on July 31—the birthday of both Harry and Rowling. She saw an opportunity to celebrate its debut in real time.
Lynch contacted the owners of Staunton’s beloved Pufferbellies Toys & Books with an idea. Together, they began approaching other downtown businesses about rallying around a midnight book release (to be hosted by Pufferbellies at Baja Bean), where Lynch promised to supply the party and a birthday cake.
In April of that year, Lynch began asking fellow business owners if they wanted to plan complementary themed events at their stores and restaurants. By July, Lynch says, there were 70 participants.
“It all felt like that scene in Cinderella where the dress, coach, etc. materialize magically—birds sewing and mice poofing into coachmen,” she recalls. “It really still feels like that most years.”
City staff got involved after a Facebook post two weeks ahead of the event generated 25,000 shares and 100,000 interactions within a couple of days. The city closed festival streets to traffic to keep people safe and continues to provide support.
Last year’s two-day festival featured more than a dozen blocks of immersive fun. I recommend exploring the night before to get your bearings. We wandered downtown—nonalcoholic “butterbeer”-inspired drinks in hand—and passed under the specter of flying ghouls strung high above the street, with black flowing fabric resembling Rowling’s “dementors.”
Staunton’s downtown, with its beautiful old architecture—from a brick-turreted building and a Gothic-style church to a 1903 beaux arts-style bank building—proved an ideal setting to create a magical world.
A steady rain the next morning didn’t deter townspeople and visitors from gathering at the train station for the arrival of enactors dressed as Hogwarts professors. As the train approached (courtesy of a city partnership with Virginia Scenic Railway), a red carpet was rolled out on the platform. A family dressed as Harry, Snape, Draco Malfoy and Dobby the house elf wandered through the jovial crowd, which was filled with others wearing costumes of their favorite characters.
The police were in on the fun, giving out sticker badges between crowd cheers and boos, depending on which faculty member disembarked. From there, the professors made their way to Beverley Street, where you could meet them and take photos.
We explored the wharf area dubbed “Do Good Alley” (a take on Diagon Alley), alongside Staunton’s weekly farmers market. It was full of tented booths where you could make wizard-themed crafts or buy items such as socks for Dobby (who needed a sock to be set free). You know you’re in “Do Good Alley” when you spot an iconic Virginia “LOVE” sign with a pair of Harry Potter-style spectacles set atop the “O.”
Many of the stores and restaurants near this part of the festival offered activities, too. I waited in line for a Rowling-inspired “sorting hat” to descend above my head and announce what house I’d be in. (To participate, you circle three traits about yourself from a long list and hand it to a volunteer.)
As the hat hovered above me, I looked out at the crowd. “Gryffindor,” the announcer said. I smiled and wondered if the hat had taken a clue from the burgundy apparel peeking out from beneath my rain jacket.
A few storefronts down, we popped into Essentially Zen, where I watched people blend essential oils and add a crystal of their choosing in potions class, each “wizard” leaving with a custom scent. A short walk from there, Sunspots Studios held a blow-your-own glass prophecy orb workshop. Even without a workshop, the store is a must-see for the beautiful glass wands blown around copper handles.
Later that afternoon, we returned to the station to watch as an actor dressed as Hagrid welcomed students arriving by train (there were four train arrival events during the festival).
Volunteers Craig and Melanie Brimhall, done up as Albus Dumbledore and Professor Minerva McGonagall respectively, oversee the festival’s characters and work throughout the year to recruit and train a cast of roughly 90 people.
“This town is magic,” Lynch says as she describes the Brimhalls’ work and the hundreds of other volunteers. “Our minds are blown every year with what these creative creatures come up with to make sure our visitors feel like they are in another world.”
When asked if there are any new wonders in store for the 2024 event, Lynch says, “This is the Year of the Dragon, so I think you’ll see some surprises along those lines.” There were already plans to add more dragon-themed elements when organizers realized the Chinese zodiac matched up.
Trinity Episcopal Church’s grand dining hall-style evening banquet, with its head table of costumed characters, is worth booking in advance. (The 2023 menu included shepherd’s pie, bangers and mash, a nonalcoholic “butterbeer” and shortbread cookies.) Arrive early to explore the grounds and snag a seat at your preferred table with place settings that include a wand and protective charm. Pick up a self-guided interior tour brochure to learn about the stories behind the church’s gorgeous stained glass windows. Check trinitystaunton.org for pricing and times.
On Sunday, Staunton stores and venues were open again for activities. We meandered down the hill to catch a Quidditch match. While many participants practice ahead of time for the games, there are opportunities for festivalgoers to try their hand at it, too.
Kids competed to get balls through rings and capture the golden snitch while spectators cheered and jockeyed for better viewing positions around the playing field (a parking lot not far from the train station). It was easy to spot characters roving solo and in groups.
I snapped a photo of villains that included a woman dressed as Bellatrix with her piercing glare. “He who shall not be named” roamed the crowd, too.
As I wandered around the sidelines, I glimpsed a woman dressed as Professor Trelawney, the eccentric divination teacher with Coke-bottle glasses who was played brilliantly by actress Emma Thompson in the third Harry Potter film. She’s one of my favorites—a hippie chick who teaches fortune-telling.
I hoped to get some intel on how the 2023 event compared to the previous one, but all she said was, “Even in the rain yesterday, there were many for our arrival,” then leaned down to meet my dog. “And who is this beautiful, magical creature?”
As was the case for all the characters I’d met or watched, she was fully in character in her speech and mannerisms. I decided to ask a simple question about the festival. “Do you think the rain had a big impact on this year’s attendance?”
She smiled and granted a divination of sorts: “You know what they say: The show must go on.”
Festival Tips
Scan QR codes printed on cards located throughout the festival for a map and a schedule. Check the festival Facebook page for the latest updates on activities and weather-related changes. The rainy Saturday in 2023 forced modifications in the Quidditch schedule and resulted in the cancellation of an evening dance party event, but most of the show went on as planned.
Street and garage parking are available around the festival’s perimeter, though it’s sometimes tricky to get a spot. Free parking and shuttle service is available. See queencitymagic.com for details. Look for a blue-shirted “prefect”—the volunteers who escort characters through the festival and roam the streets to assist festivalgoers—if you get lost, require a bathroom or just need a photo assist.
Places to Explore
Extend your stay to check out some of Staunton’s most popular muggle attractions, including the American Shakespeare Center, the Woodrow Wilson Presidential Library & Museum, and, outside Staunton’s city limits, the peaceful Harmony Harvest Farm, a 20-acre cut flower site in Weyers Cave that offers a pick-your-own flower experience, farm tours, workshops and a farm shop.
Where to Stay
The Blackburn Inn, a Shenandoah Valley gem within walking distance of the festival, opened in 2018 after the Jeffersonian-style building received a modern makeover that highlighted its vaulted ceilings, original heart pine floors and a reproduction antique drafting table that serves as the reception desk. Guest rooms include pillowtop beds and spacious marble bathrooms, some with soaking tubs. Rates begin at $249.
Family- and pet-friendly Tru by Hilton Staunton is right off I-81, about 2½ miles from town. The hotel’s minimalist-style guest rooms have pegs, rather than closets, for hanging clothes. You’ll also find comfy lobby seating, board games, a complimentary breakfast and festival-themed decor galore. Rates begin at $419.
Next door to Tru, the Fairfield Inn & Suites by Marriott Staunton offers similarly well-rated accommodations, with a bit more in the way of amenities and an upscale vibe. Rates begin at $500.
Where to Eat & Drink
Festival organizer Sarah Lynch’s restaurant, Baja Bean, is right in the mix on Beverley Street. The Mexican menu includes freshly made salsa and hot sauces. Visit the website for details on live music and dance party nights. Marino’s Lunch is a local institution that goes beyond lunch, serving breakfast (with a full bar) through dinner (think wings, hot dogs, burgers and fried green tomatoes) and doubles as a music venue with jam sessions.
Pizza Luca, a popular newcomer to Staunton’s dining scene created by Justin Hershey, chef-owner of nearby Chicano Boy Taco, offers brick-fired pizzas, pastas, salads and other Italian American favorites. Remedy Burger looks like the place where a grown Quidditch crew would congregate for a postgame cocktail at the bar and specialty burgers, such as a house-made vegetarian broccoli/Parmesan burger with American cheese, pickles, white onion, iceberg lettuce and the special Remedy Sauce on a sesame bun, or one of the many popular beefy choices.
Head to Reunion Bakery & Espresso sooner rather than later (to avoid sellouts) for coffee and baked goods. This locally owned and operated bakery’s fare includes delicious quiches, muffins and a selection of festival themed treats.
Christine Koubek Flynn reports on what is new and notable in mid-Atlantic travel in the magazine’s Get Away column. Her travel stories have also appeared in The Washington Post and Coastal Living, among others, and she teaches at The Writer’s Center in Bethesda.